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Interior How-To Brochure
Step 1: Organize your project
The surface you're painting will determine the best paint to use, and the online
Paint Calculator can help you calculate how much paint you'll need.
Step 2: Prepare your surface
Repair any holes or flaws; sand rough spots or loose paint; clean the surface (and make sure it's dry); then use painter's tape to mask the edges - and don't forget drop cloths on floors and furniture!
Step 3: Apply the paint
Start by priming using CIL Primer or, for stains and colour variation, CIL Stain Blocking Primer. Then paint the ceiling. Next, use a trim brush for edges and outlets, and follow through with the 'W' method to fill in the walls. For the finishing touches, use CIL Door & Trim paint.
Exterior How-To Brochure
Step 1: Organize your project
Wood. Brick. Stucco. Siding. Different surfaces require different types of paint. Be sure you've got the right one for your outdoor project, and use our online Paint Calculator
to help you calculate how much you'll need.
Step 2: Prepare your surface
Remove loose or peeling paint and fill in joints and cracks. When the filler is dry, sand it smooth, and for good adhesion, sand previously-painted glossy finishes using 80 grit sandpaper. Then wash the surface and be sure it's dry before painting.
Step 3: Apply the paint
Apply paint only if the temperature is above 10°C. Then prime it if necessary using the appropriate primer, and apply the paint (two coats if required) working from top to bottom and painting eaves and gutters first.
Stain How-To Brochure
Step 1: Organize your project
Choose the best stain for your project - cedar treatment, semi-transparent or solid hide - and use the online Paint Calculator to help you calculate how much stain you'll need.
Step 2: Prepare your surface
Use an exterior wood stripper if the surface is in poor condition and clean off any mildew. Remove loose, grey wood fibers and wet-sand the surface with the appropriate grit-paper to avoid dust and possible hazardous fumes. Clean the surface as needed. If using a solid stain on bare wood, cover the knots with shellac before priming.
Step 3: Apply the stain
Using a polyester or nylon brush, apply the stain on dry surfaces in temperatures of between 10°C and 32°C. Use a primer if needed and apply the stain generously, following the wood grain and keeping a wet edge on the brush. For wood with exposed ends, saturate the ends and stain only four to six boards at a time. Apply no more than two coats.
The Paint Project Centre Checklist
- Stir Sticks
- Paint Tray
- Paint Liner
- Paint Brush
- Roller Cover
- Roller Frame
- Painter's Tape
- Drop Cloth
- Sand Paper
- Ladder
Application Tips
Keep a wet edge.
When brushing or rolling, always work from the dry surface back into the wet paint, working fast enough to keep a wet edge. If you take a break, do it in a corner, never in the middle of a wall. This will help avoid lap or roller marks on the painted surface.
Dry your brush.
If you are going to reuse a brush that has just been cleaned with water, blow it dry with a hair dryer first. Any residual water in the bristles will dilute the paint on the brush, causing it to run down the handle when painting. If the brush has just been cleaned with mineral spirits, dry the bristles as thoroughly as possible with paper towels before starting to paint to prevent paint running down the handle. Spread the paper towel out to dry before disposing.
Get a cleaner edge.
If using masking tape to protect a surface when painting (other than carpet), remove the tape as soon as you can. You will get a cleaner edge and reduce the chance that the tape will bond to the surface. Masking tape comes in many grades and qualities, so talk to your paint supplier to make sure you get the right tape for the job.
Use tape to paint baseboards.
Use two-inch masking tape around the edge of the carpet when painting baseboards. Allow the tape to lay on the baseboard about 3/4" and then tuck it down over the carpet fibres as you pull them away from the baseboard. The tape will not stick firmly to the carpet fibres, so let the paint dry before removing the tape.
Keep the window to your back when painting a ceiling.
When painting a ceiling and there is a window in the room, keep the light source at your back and start painting away from the window. This ensures that you will see any missed areas and reduce lap marks. If there is more then one window, choose the largest one and follow the same procedure.
Tip: Use a CIL ceiling paint with our Disappearing Dye™ technology to ensure you never miss a spot. Paint rolls on pink and dries to bright white in 30 to 60 minutes.
Avoid painting dark colours on a hot day or in direct sun.
Hot days and direct sunlight can cause dark paint to skin over and trap solvent in the film. As the solvent tries to escape, blisters can form, which will require sanding and repainting.
Tool Tips
Invest in a good brush and roller.
Buy a good-quality brush or roller. A cheap brush loses bristles, doesn't hold as much paint, and is harder to use when "cutting in" to another surface. Cheap rollers tend to mat and leave an uneven stipple on the surface.
Use the right brush for the job.
Paintbrushes are designed for particular functions and so come in a variety of shapes. The angular brush is used to trace fine lines and cut clean even edges. The straight brush is used when precision is not required - for example, when painting large surfaces after cutting in is completed. The round paintbrush is useful for curved surfaces such as mouldings, railings or pipes.
Use an extension pole on your roller handle.
An extension pole on your roller handle allows you to use longer strokes and saves you from bending over to refill the roller with more paint. It also speeds up the job and makes it easier to maintain a wet edge - especially important on ceilings.
Surface Preparation Tips
Prime new plaster.
Although new plaster can be primed with latex sealer, it's recommended that large plaster surfaces be primed with a properly formulated oil-base wall primer-sealer. This is partly because latex does not penetrate the plaster surface and if the plaster is powdery, over-trowelled, or its mix isn't quite right, poor paint adhesion can result. Keep in mind that regardless of whether you choose an oil or latex, the moisture content of the plaster must be below 14 percent for paint to be successfully applied.
Don't prime an oil-base gloss with an oil-base primer.
When recoating a gloss or semi-gloss oil paint with the same finish, do not prime the old paint using an oil-base primer. Instead, clean and sand the surface to de-gloss it. The new oil topcoat will then have better adhesion to the old coating - better than an oil primer. Primers perform best on new or bare surfaces. You will, however, want to use an oil-base primer over existing oil-base enamel if the topcoat is latex. The oil primer will improve adhesion of the latex finish coat.
When it comes to sanding, grit is it.
When sanding between coats of paint, keep in mind that a grit of 80 or less may scratch the surface to the point where scratch marks will show through on the next coat of paint. If the grit is too fine, the sandpaper will plug up. 120 grit is usually about right.
Check for sanding marks on new drywall.
Before painting new drywall, check to see if it was sanded with sandpaper that was too coarse, leaving scratch marks in the taping compound or cutting through the paper face of the drywall board near joints or patches. The scratch marks will show through several coats of paint, and the roughed up paper face will create an uneven surface texture. In many cases these defects must be repaired before the topcoat (especially an oil-base paint) is applied.
Keep moisture to a minimum.
The maximum moisture content for any surface to be painted is 12 to 14 percent. Painting a surface that contains a higher level of moisture can lead to peeling. The only accurate way to determine moisture content is to use an electronic meter.
Curb the number of coats.
There is a limit to the number of coats of paint that a surface can support. As the paint thickness builds up over time, and the coatings age, they lose their flexibility and can no longer expand and contract with the surface they're on. Cracking or flaking usually results. It is not uncommon to put a coat of paint on a surface that appears sound, only to have many layers of paint peel away. At this point the surface must be stripped.
Sand to smooth wood and improve staining.
There are two reasons for sanding wood prior to staining. The most obvious is making the wood smooth, but another is increasing the porosity of the wood, which makes the penetration of the stain more uniform - especially important with transparent stains.
Avoid painting over varnish.
Most paints on varnish adhere poorly and chip easily. Although de-glossing by sanding with 120 grit sandpaper can help, for best results, strip off the varnish with paint remover and then prime with an oil-base primer before covering with an oil or latex topcoat.
Test pressure-treated lumber to be sure it's ready for painting.
Pressure-treated lumber is kiln-dried wood (usually spruce or yellow pine) that is treated with chemical preservatives dispersed in water. To check if the wood is dry enough for a stain or paint, put water drops on the wood's surface. If the water soaks in, the wood is ready. It can then be painted or stained like any other wood surface. Over time, pressure-treated wood that is not painted or stained will weather, crack and check as badly as untreated wood.
Sand sun-damaged wood before painting.
Wood that has been exposed to the sun for more than a month should be sanded before painting, especially if the wood has started to turn grey. Sunlight causes the wood fibres to chalk and erode unevenly. They then form a weak surface layer that has poor adhesion and can cause the paint to peel. To test for sun damage, press a piece of tape on the surface, rub the back of the tape to ensure good contact, and then strip off the tape. If a lot of wood fibres cling to the tape, the wood needs sanding before painting.
Use two coats of primer on plywood.
Moisture in plywood causes the top veneer to crack. To prevent this and properly seal the wood and prepare it for a latex paint or stain, apply two coats of exterior oil-base or high-quality acrylic primer first. Never use semi-transparent stain on plywood; it does not provide enough protection from moisture, allowing the plywood to crack and check.
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